In 2019, not long after I was last in Rishikesh, the Lakshman Jhula bridge collapsed.
Although I had been aware of this at the time, it must have slipped my mind in the interim. A lot had happened—most notably a pandemic—since I’d last stood on the banks of the Ganges. As a result, when I was back in January, I took a room in Tapovan, on the western side…
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